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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.